The headers are labelled, but when viewed from the USB port, it goes X/Y/Z on the right hand side and the Extruder Motor goes into E0.Ħ) Connect the LED Strip and Extruder Stepper Fan to the power strips, or your alternative 12V supply. If you are choosing to reterminate the wires, then now is a good time to do that instead.ĥ) Now connect the Motors. It should now look something like:Ĥ) To kick things off and get the wires out of the way, hook up your Limit Switches to the Sidecar. I found attaching it at the top right and bottom left corners provides a more than solid mounting to the printer - but feel free to use all 4 mount points. Also be sure to remove the 5th Stepper Driver board if your kit came with them pre-installed on the board.ģ) When done, mount it to the Solidoodle by using 2 x 10mm M3 screws. I used 2 M3 30mm Bolts + Nuts, and a Zip Tie on the 'blind' mount hole on the top left of the board when viewed from the USB connector. Installing the Bracket and RAMPS Board 1) So after you remove the cover (if you have one or an SD3) from the existing Sanguinololu, the back of your printer probably looks close to this: Eagle-Eyed readers will probably not I've removed the Bed Thermistor and Heater and my Sang has a 1284p in place of the 644p, but it should be similar enough.Ģ) Now you want to first attach the RAMPS to the Bracket before installation. Once made up, it slots in quite firmly to the sidecar slot on the bracket, like thus: This allows me to use the stock connectors but patch them onto the RAMPS limit headers. The Right-Angle/Vertical combos are used inconjunction with a set of 6 Jumper Wires to 'remap' the Limit Switches. These become 2 power strips that are later connected to my 12V supply (I use a small JST connector to keep it modular, but you can screw it into the input terminals just as effectively). To each of the Double Row header sets, I've added a Red and Black wire. Using some Stripboard that I cut to 55x25, I have added some Double Row Headers that are installed such that all the left pins are shorted and all the right pins are shorted, and a set of 9 Right Angle and Vertical Pins that have 1 vertical pin shorted to 1 right angle pin. To resolve these issues, I have made the following: As hopefully should be visible from the pics it is a very simple board. It also required a different physical pinout connection on the Limit Switches that you can't really deal with in firmware. ![]() The Sidecar Board: As mentioned, the RAMPS does have fewer 12V rails exposed. Specific Info on RAMPS itself is best sought from the RAMPS Wiki page: ![]() I am using the Sang to RAMPS bracket I made up with the slot for a sidecar board. I still recommend making up the sidecar board for the additional Power Connectors. If you don't care for preserving the 'stock' connections at all, you can obviously simply re-terminate the Limit Switch connectors. RAMPS boards also do not have as many 12V headers exposed, so my Sidecar board seeks to resolve that issue as well. It will, for the most part, bolt straight onto the Solidoodle with 2 specific differences: a) The Bed and Extruder Heaters are Screw Terminals b) The Limit Switches need to change pinout slightly. ![]() It is modular in that it sits on top of an Arduino MEGA 2560, allowing future replacement/upgrade without need to alter I/O. These boards are available online as a complete kit, with or without LCD and often many other accesories. If you want to add accessories such as multiple PWM Fans, an LCD, multiple extruders or other features, the easiest way to achieve this is to switch to using a RAMPS (RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield).
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